Valley of the Giants - So. Manitou Island
South Manitou Island is found in Lake Michigan about 18 miles west of the Leelanau Peninsula. The island is under the authority of the Forest Service and is a favorite destination for people who like to backpack into a pristine environment and for a genuine rustic camping experience. The island is a favorite day trip for vacationers enjoying the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. There are several attractions on the island all of which can be visited via a 20-mile system of trails. Attractions include a lighthouse, unique sand dune formations, abandoned farms, old cemeteries, 3 campgrounds, and several shipwrecks. In the southwest corner of the island is a stand of old growth white cedars known as the Valley of the Giants. These towering trees were spared by the loggers operating here in the early 1900s. The largest cedar has a circumference in excess of 18 feet and the oldest cedars are more than 500 years old; perhaps the oldest on earth. While there is no overlook with a view of gigantic trees spreading across the valley, there is an excellent trail with boardwalks and benches. The trail makes it easy to get up close and spend some quiet time with these aged giants.
Visiting the Valley of the Giants on a day trip requires a bit of planning. If you travel to the island by ferry for the day, you will have about 4 hours to explore. The hike to the cedars is about 3.5 miles making for a 7-mile round trip. Not only that, but you also have to pack in all the supplies you may need including food and water. There are no stores on the island and no supplies. Further, wheels are not allowed so it is backpacks for everyone. Going to the cedars you can walk along the old road or take the primitive trail through the forest. The forest trail starts near the lighthouse. It is unimproved but is an easy walk with only gentle elevation changes. The trail system is well marked with signs at trail junctions, but it is helpful to take a map along with you. Maps are free at the Ranger Station. We made the hike out to the valley in about an hour and a half which left time for exploring a bit. If on a day trip, the ferry will leave on time at 4 pm, so it is important to hustle back.
There is another option. Upon arrival you can pause
for lunch and an orientation. Then take a wagon ride
that includes visits to a couple of historic sites and
informative talks along the way. The wagon ride is the
only other way to get out there and operates on a strict
schedule. Hikers must choose from among a few other
attractions to use the hour or so left after the hike to
the cedars and back. Some choose a lighthouse tour, some
hike out to one of the cemeteries. One of the most
unique features of the island topography is found on the
west coast of the island. In the post glacial period,
the basin formed by the receding glaciers filled with
water and Lake Michigan was formed. The prevailing winds
pushed sand from the high bluffs inland. This activity
formed towering sand dunes known as perched dunes. In
some places the dunes are up to 400 feet above the lake.
When visiting the perched dunes be aware that this is a
fragile ecosystem. It is recommended that hikers keep to
the designated trail. We chose to take in the visitors’
center. The center includes several farming implements
and buildings. The buildings contain artifacts and
information about life for the farmers on the island and
the Life Saving Station operated by the U.S Life Saving
Service.
The alternative to a day trip on South Manitou Island is
to go camping. This is not your ordinary camping trip
and will require careful planning. There are 3
campgrounds. The one closest to the dock is over half a
mile away. The most distant campground, the Popple
Campground, is over 3 miles. There is no transfer
service from the dock to the campgrounds and no wheels
are allowed. That means you must pack everything to your
campsite, everything. So, if you are going for several
days, you will have to make a couple round trips to move
all your supplies. It is strongly recommended that food
be packed in hard containers to thwart the mini bears as
the voracious population of chipmunks is known. The
Popple Campground is notable for another reason, no
fires are allowed there, so no morning coffee for you.
One final note about that “no wheels allowed” policy. It
can make for a difficult time for fishermen. There is a
fine inland lake on the island, Florence Lake. Boats
without motors are allowed on the lake but wheeled
vehicles may not be used to transport those boats. You
have to carry them in and the boat must be
decontaminated by the rangers. Decontamination is
required for kayaks, tubes, rafts and waders. Also, only
artificial lures are allowed in Florence Lake.
GETTING THERE
Some visitors make their way to the island on private
water craft, but for most people the best option is the
ferry service operated by the Manitou Island Transit
Company. They are in the town of Leland on the Leelanau
Peninsula. The ferry ride lasts about an hour and a half
and offers views of Sleeping Bear Dunes, the Clay Cliffs
and North Manitou Island. The ferry company does an
excellent job and runs things on time. About the only
thing they don’t have under control is the weather and
the weather is everything. While rain won’t necessarily
prevent the trip, wind can be a spoiler. The ferry has
plenty of room for 114 passengers and all their gear. To
make the crossing more fun, drinks are available on
board.
A BIT MORE HISTORY
If you are wondering about the name of the island, there
is a Native American legend that tells the story. The
word manitou, translates as spirit. The story tells of
fighting and strife between two tribes, one from the
upper peninsula and another from the lower peninsula. It
seems that during a long running feud, the upper
peninsula tribe attacked the lower peninsula tribe
killing all but seven warriors. After the battle, the
victorious tribe made their way to the islands. The
seven warriors of the defeated tribe followed and under
cover of darkness crept into the camp of the upper
peninsula tribe and killed nearly all of them. They
slipped away undetected by the survivors and returned to
the mainland. The deaths were blamed on spirits and
after that, Indians avoided the islands.